CHASING MAVERICKS, A MOVIE ABOUT JAY MORIARITY’S STORY
There are people who live their lives beyond the limits, as if they already knew their destiny. That is what happened to Jay Moriarity whose surfer story became so legendary that it became a movie.
By Erika Scafuro
There are people who livetheir lives beyond the limits, as if they already knew their destiny. That is what happened toJay Moriaritywhose surfer story became solegendarythat it became amovie. His life has been told inChasing Mavericks, a 2012 movie directed by Michael Apted and Curtis Hanson. The movie title encloses the reason why Jay is remembered in the surfing world:at the age of 16 he rides Mavericks.A giant wave, one of the biggest of the world,generating in Northern Californiaoff Half Moon Bay.
Born in 1978 Jay grows up in Santa Cruz, California andhis life changeswhen he meets the surferRichard “Frosty” Hessonand thus discovers themyth of Mavericks. It starts ajourney of training and friendshipand that leads Jay to ask Frosty to train him to chase this wave. The movie shows the relationship that creates between the two, how determined Jay is to face this wave and how muchFrosty takes time to prepare him for this incredible challenge. Mavericks not only requiresphysical strengthto face it, like paddle to gain strenght and train the lungs for the breath, Jay must learnhow survive into a powerful, giant and fast mass of waterthat drags under water for several minutes. Frosty in fact trains Jay to the test throughvarious pillarswhich includemental and spiritual preparation: the evaluation of currents, wind and the dangerous points of the spot, to dose the energy and to write motivational themes about fear and other emotions.
Mavericks forms for theunderwater long sloping rampwhich gives the speed to reach the surface; with the winter storms waves can reach aheight of twenty meters. Thanks to his preparation and training together with his mentor Frosty, on April 1994Jay Moriarity dominated Mavericks wave. He was only 16 years old. Jay’s first ride of this mountain of water was immortalized by a photo which becamethe cover of the Surfer magazine. After this historic feat andpushing himself to the limit, Jay continued to surf Mavericks and to continue to train his breath.
On June 2001Jay died drowned while free diving in the Maldives. He was only twentytwo years old. Together with the emotion of Jay’s untimely death, his way of life has become a motto worldwide: “Live like Jay”, always remember to live afull life, chasing dreams, as he did. Chasing Mavericksis one of the most emotional surf movies, as well as showing Jay’s incredible bravery, it showsthe value of friendshipand how Frosti became a reference point for Jay’s education.
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